Day 21 – Access denied

We’ve been away for 3 weeks and it’s been pretty much solid gold day in, day out. So the law of averages says that eventually an average day has to pop its head up – right? That day was today. Don’t get me wrong though, a shit day on holiday in Tokyo is always gonna beat an average day at work. So let’s keep it in perspective – but it has to be said that today had its frustrations and disappointments. There were however many compensations in the form of quality food and beverages, so let’s get into it.

Tokyo is v hot and humid right now. But I think I’ve already whined about that in previous posts. Despite the heat (34 degrees), I decided it would be a top day for an early morning run. The gorgeous looking Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden is not too far from our AirBnB and I thought a slow and steady run through the trees would be just the ticket. I was particularly seduced by what is described on the map as the “row of plane trees.” So off I went. The first gate to the park that I encountered (by then sweating profusely) was closed. Oh well I thought, it’s probably a minor entrance. I’m sure the bigger gates will be open. Wrong. By the time I’d skirted halfway round the massive park I finally had to admit defeat – the park was closed. Who knows when it opened? I jogged home with the start of a crushing headache reminding me what a stupid gaijin I was.

After a shower and some rehydration we struck out optimistically once more. This time we had some luck. Some perfect coffee and delicious bickies at Double Tall Coffee in Shinjuku. We will be back.

Suitably fortified and with my headache receding, we jumped on a train to Sengawa. Our destination was the Tokyo Art Museum, designed by your friend and mine Tadao Ando. In fact there were apparently 5 or 6 of his buildings on the same street in Sengawa. So we went off to see for ourselves. The buildings are all designed to fit into very narrow spaces and despite the heat we managed to see most of them. But the highlight for me was the interior of the Tokyo Art Museum. Or it would have been. They wouldn’t let us in. They were changing exhibits according to the apologetic hipster at the door. I thought briefly about falling to my sweaty knees and begging him to let us in anyway. But I have my dignity.

So that was two strikes. And when you’re up against it you’ve gotta stick with what you know – something safe and reassuring. In our case that’s shopping. We spent a happy hour or so in the massive Tower Records Store in Shibuya. But it was getting late and our thoughts turned to drinks. We decided to head to Shinjuku to a bar we’d heard about called Open Book Ha (the larger, newer, cooler sister of the Open Book bar that we visited when we first arrived in Tokyo a few weeks ago). So we got there (two train changes and a decent walk in the heat), peered in the windows – it looked way cool – bottles of Lemon Sour backlit from the dappled light of the park behind the bar. There was a handwritten sign on the door in Japanese (katana) – Google translate told us the bar was closed today due to sickness. Three strikes. We were out.

Almost. Summoning up all our middle class traveller strength, we struck out for Afuri. A ramen chain that we know is top notch and there was one in Shinjuku! All we had to do was find it. Sadly it was buried in the nine circles of hell that is Shinjuku train station. After 25 minutes or so of aimless wandering, almost in tears, we caught sight of it tucked away in a department store food hall. Was it worth it? You know it.

Tomorrow is another day. Our last full day in Japan.

Access denied. A side gate into the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden.

Nope. Not this way either.

My headache dissipated thanks to the excellent coffee at Double Tall Coffee Shinjuku.

Yes the coffee was excellent. And the homemade chocolate chip cookies (still warm) with chocolate drizzle were even more excellenter. Double Tall Coffee Shinjuku

The Tokyo Art Museum in Sengawa. Designed by Tadao Ando. The interior was supposed to be stunning. We’ll have to take their word for it. They wouldn’t let us in – too busy setting up for the next exhibition.

More Tadao Ando work. In the same street. This is the Sengawa Theatre. Jules is using it to shelter from the blazing heat. It was closed.

More work from old mate Ando. There are 5 or 6 of them on the same Sengawa street.

Sums up our mood perfectly.

Browsing the new vinyl section at Tower Records Shibuya. 8 floors of music bliss. Including a whole floor of K-Pop complete with the usual live performance from yet another boy band.

“Deep chocolate canele.” From some place called Canele et Crème Glacee in Shibuya. It was perfecto. Not sure what’s going on with my thumbnail. I take a calcium supplement.