Day 18 – Osaka 2, Gaijin 0

OK look, it was raining again. And it is our own fault for flying into Japan in the wettest part of the year – but it does kinda sorta limit what you can and can’t do with your day. I’m not complaining mind you – just lots more opportunities for black and white photos.

Coffee first. From a place nearby called Melbourne Coffee. It was fine – jaffles and “smashed avo” and drinkable coffee. Then it was off on our primary mission for the day – a little rainy excursion to the Osaka Culturarium – which is home to large theatre. Not because we were in need of culture. No our culture cups were full – we were going because the building was a striking example of the work of famous Japanese architect Tadao Ando. He’s certainly done some beautiful things with concrete – perfect for a grey wet day.

We took the train down to the Tempozan waterfront and at first I couldn’t understand why there were so many families with kids joining us. Turns out that Tempozan is also the home of the Osaka aquarium and the jumping off point for Universal Studios theme park (which is on an island in the bay). I felt a bit sorry for the parents – a theme park in the pouring rain sounds like a drag.

On the way over the wind caught Jules’ umbrella turning it inside out and shredding it completely. Only took a couple of seconds. Osaka 1, gaijin 0.

Anyway no one was heading to the Culturarium except us. It was an incredible building from the outside – and it was completely dead inside. A large empty restaurant and a massive gift shop staffed by bored attendants who were desperate to interact – anything to pass the time I guess. Anyway we played along, allowing one of the staff to set us up in front of some parasol umbrella things while he took photos. It was a laugh. We stopped laughing when we got outside to find someone had nicked our remaining intact umbrella. So strange. There was literally no one around. All that was left in the umbrella rack, sitting there all alone, was Jules’ destroyed bundle of sticks and plastic. Osaka 2, gaijin 0.

At that point we decided to go somewhere dry, somewhere undercover. What we needed was a massive shopping complex. And fortunately Osaka has lots of them. We spent a chunk of the afternoon in Grand Front Osaka (its back was grand as well), eating lunch at Muji cafe (so calming) and checking out the LV bags and Rolex watches. Grand Front Osaka is attached to the massive and very impressive Osaka train station so we strolled around there as well.

The rain eased a little so we took the opportunity to browse the many many vintage clothing stores in the Shinsaibashi area before stopping off at Umineko – a teeny tiny craft beer bar – room for maybe 6 people – standing only. Loved it.

Dinner was very Japanese. Order and pay at the entrance to the restaurant using a touch screen. Take a seat and marvel at the delish stuff they bring out for you to consume. In my case, grilled mackerel, miso soup, rice, salad, pickles, tofu. Perfect.

How it started. Striding out confidently in search of coffee.

Coffee sorted – along with what we might call a jaffle. But at the “Melbourne Cafe” they call it a toastie. Just semantics. The cafe even had a big photo of a Melbourne graffiti laneway proudly on display.

On the mean streets of Osaka.

The Osaka Culturarium at Tempozan. Is culturarium even a word? Amazing building designed by famed Japanese architect Tadao Ando.

Down on the waterfront at Tempozan. Osaka gets moody.

Jules in front of the Osaka Aquarium moments before a freak gust of wind completely destroyed her umbrella.

More culturarium.

In the completely empty shop inside the Culturarium. One of the bored staff absolutely cajoled us into having our picture taken. Lots of umbrellas inside – meanwhile outside someone was nicking our remaining one.