Miraculously the rain had stopped overnight and although it was overcast and looked threatening the rain stayed away. I took that as a sign and went out for an early Friday morning run. I headed straight down to the Fukuoka waterfront, expecting tree lined promenades, tasteful cafes and hip hotels. That’s not what I found. The Fukuoka waterfront is an industrial working port – so they’re a long way from capitalising on its tourist potential – and maybe that’s not a bad thing. Anyway I picked up a couple of coffees on the way back and the look on Jules’ face when I arrived back with a couple of double shot oat lattes saved it from being a wasted trip.
Speaking of jogging – I have noticed that Japanese men are masters of what I have started calling “demonstrative jogging”. When I run I do my very best to make it look like I’m doing it easy – even if my chest is on fire and I can’t catch my breath. Not so Japanese men joggers. It seems that the more groaning, huffing and puffing they make, the better. It’s almost comical (well actually I think it is comical) and quite like the run didn’t happen if no one else hears about it. Maybe it’s the same principle that the Japanese apply to eating noodles – you must slurp loudly to show you are enjoying them.
Today’s primary destination was the Fukuoka Art Museum. We’d heard about a solo exhibition there by a local artist made good. His name is Kyne and he’s famous for his stripped back, almost minimalist (and very saleable) paintings and prints of mainly Japanese women. To get there we decided to walk through Fukuoka’s Ohori park, which contains a large lake which used to be a moat and the remnants of Fukuoka Castle. It was a lovely walk especially in the absence of any rain and when we got to the museum we were delighted. It was built in 1972 and is a gloriously intact representation of that time.
Anyway after the usual cautions from staff about photos, where you can and can’t walk, why you need to keep your voice down etc we made it into the Kyne exhibition. His work is instantly accessible and I thoroughly enjoyed the show. The museum’s contemporary collection also contains some other lovely work including stuff by Miro which I loved.
After lunch in the cafe (omurice again – I’m addicted), we decided to take a walk around the lake in Ohuri Park. Well! We were not prepared for what a total teen scene it was. The photos below tell the story but never before have I seen so many preening immaculately made up teenagers. And not just girls – there were even some boys with juggalo makeup on (look it up) all wandering through the “natural environment” taking selfies etc. And then there was the flirting. You could almost smell the hormones.
Ice cream was the only antidote to all that teenage intensity. So we sampled some and followed that up with a bit of vintage clothes shopping back in the hipster Tenjin area. The vintage clothing thing is also huge in Fukuoka. I guess what differentiates the Japanese vintage clothing thing from Australia is how carefully curated and categorised each store is. Hundreds of Hawaiian shirts all grouped by colour, trainers grouped by brand and era etc. It gladdens my Virgo heart and makes finding stuff easy – and find stuff we did.
We capped off the night with dinner at Bangkok-ya, a tiny Thai style place literally 50 metres from our AirBnB. Only one dish on the menu (choice is overrated) and the food was lovely. So was the owner, a Japanese guy with a Thailand obsession. A very short walk home. Day done.
Morning run shot. Fukuoka port area.
Walking through Ohori Park on the way to the Fukuoka Museum of Modern Art.
Interior shot of the gorgeous retro Fukuoka Museum of Modern Art. Check the copper light fittings.
One of the super cool works at the Kyne solo exhibition. Fukuoka Museum of Modern Art.
And speaking of super cool.
More Kyne.
You can’t tell from this photo – but this little stand of trees at Ohori Park is alive with overdressed teenagers taking fashion photos and pouting selfies.
Impromptu teenage makeup session on the bridge at Ohori Park. Wish I could have moved closer but that would have been sketchy.
Gaijins infuriating the local teenagers by hogging a prime photo spot to stage their own fashion photo. Ohori Park Fukuoka.
Afternoon snack. Chocolate hazelnut ice cream and blueberry yoghurt. Not bad.
Actually I started my used clothing life decades ago – but I’m showing my age. The vintage clothing market is completely massive throughout Japan.
Delicious Thai style chicken and rice from “Bangkok-ya” across the road from our accommodation. Coriander, fresh chilli, garlic! It started raining (again) but we were snug and dry under our little awning.
One for Louis.
flyeelookee 