We came to Kinosaki Onsen to get nude and wet, so we began the day the way we intended to continue – with a visit to one of the private onsen here at Mikuniya ryokan. After the dip we went (as usual) in search of coffee and were astounded to find some quality gear about 190 metres away. Yay etc.
Then we strolled to the other end of town (a 15 minute walk) to ride the Kinosaki Ropeway which is really just a smallish cable car thing that takes you from town to the top of Mount Daishi. The view from the top was spectacular and there were some cool temples and shrines half way down.
After a crab meat bun (Kinosaki is famous for some kind of massive crab, which I’m assuming is fresh water given how far inland we are?) and an iced cold beer, we steeled ourselves for a bit of public nudity. There are 7 public onsen in Kinosaki but we had our sights set on the coolest one (obviously) – Gonshono-Yu. It’s a gender separated onsen set in against a waterfall of hot spring water and heaps of natural vegetation.
So we split up, nuded up and jumped in with the mostly local patrons. And I do have to say it was incredible. Obviously no photos – soz. But it was relaxing and I’m trying to avoid using this word because it makes me sound way too uptight. But I’ll use it anyway – it was liberating. The setting was so beautiful with the waterfall cascading down, ferns and granite bolders everywhere. And the only other dudes in there were setting a great example of how to be nude without even trying.
To round out the decadence it was back to the ryokan for a fancy kaiseki style dinner. It seemed that we were the only two dining in (like I said it’s low season) so they put us in a little broom closet called the Sakura room. But it mattered not – the food was fresh, complicated, mysterious and yum.

Pink yukuta. On the way back to our room after a little dip.

Miraculous coffee.

Fancy rice crackers. Black sesame and some other spice mix. Served warm. A perfect post coffee snack.

Feeling scared, looking cheerful. Kinosaki Ropeway.

Pretty specky. The view from the top of Mount Daishi.

Tiny Buddha. Top of Mount Daishi.

Tiny praying dude. Top of Mount Daishi.

Kinosaki ropeway.

More tiny things.

Gorgeous Japanese maple. Mount Daishi.

Cemetery. Taken from the ropeway.

Pineapple mochi. Improbably delicious.

Kaiseki style dinner for two at Mikuniya. In a little broom closet for two. Squeezy but obviously v delicious. Note the local crab.

Gonshu-Yu bathhouse – public outdoor bathing area. From their website – not my pic obviously – I would have captured the beautiful cascading waterfall that feeds this onsen.