The start of our very last full day in Japan, so I kicked things off with a little run around the back streets – going to miss these random runs. We chose a cafe for breakfast that was on the ground floor of a massive sky-scraper in Ebisu. It was packed full of locals with laptops – which meant they had wifi – and now that we have sent back our rented pocket wifi – this was a definite bonus. The coffee was also pretty good and the pastries were excellent.
We has a packed program for the day – basically trying to do a few of the things that we had missed out on during our first stint in Tokyo – it was only a couple of weeks ago but it feels so distant. First priority was to head back to Rappongi to visit the Mori Museum, which is a large museum in the Rappongi Hills complex (which is huge and fancy and chockers with shops). The Museum was funded by a wealthy real estate developer – so of course they have spared no expense.
We headed there to catch an exhibition by the famous Japanese artist Shiota Chiharu, but when we got there we discovered that there was also an exhibition called The Science of Pixar (entry was free if you purchased a Shiota Chiaru ticket) – winning! We zipped through the Pixar thing – which was excellent – basically taking you through the process used by Pixar studios to create their amazing digitally animated features. Also amazing was the view from the 42nd floor windows of the Mori Museum – Tokyo stretched as far as the eye could see (and it was a clear day).
After we smashed the Museum shop for Pixar merch, we headed over to the Shiota Chiaru exhibition – which the Museum website described as follows: “Shiota Chiaru: The Soul Trembles. The Largeset (sic) and Most Comprehensive Exhibition Ever, Illuminating The Artist’s Entire Oeuvre. Luckily the exhibition itself was way better than the description. We had seen her work before in Hobart as part of MOFO (she set fire to a piano and created a huge weblike structure using red string) and were keen for more. It was super amazing – lots more huge installations with string (and suitcases), lots of paintings and video footage of some of her past work. Definitely glad we made the effort.
By then it was lunchtime – yay! And we just happened to be very close to Afuri – which is an excellent Ramen Noodle place that we had visited on our first few days in Tokyo – double yay! Jules and I opted for their “light broth” ramen which is served with poached chicken in a clear and tasty base – with a slight citrus tang courtesy of the yuzu they use in the broth. Maybe I’ll open a Ramen Shop in Hobart – we are really gonna miss it.
One thing we are not going to miss is the Tokyo rain. It can go from zero to raging torrent in a heartbeat – which is what it did while we were on our way for just a little more shopping in the uber hip suburbs of Daikanyama and Naka Meguro. Luckily it was warm rain so we just got a little squelchy without the shivers. Anyway the rain eventually eased as wandered from bespoke denim shop to super fancy ice cream shop. Speaking of the ice cream shop – it was the scene of one of our final Japanese humiliations. After purchasing three cups of very expensive ice cream, we stood inside the shop in a little alcove that we assumed was where you were supposed to eat your ice cream. Fools! The staff quickly (but of course politely) informed us that you were not allowed to eat ice cream in the ice cream shop – sure. So outside we went to eat in the rain looking dolefully back in at the smiling staff and the nice dry alcove. The shopping continued – but it was all a bit la di da for our tastes – in my opinion the suburbs of Ebisu and Shimo Akitazawa were way cooler.
Later Lou lead us across town in search of “Waltz” a supposedly super cool music store that specialised in the sale of cassettes… yes cassettes. We eventually found it on a back street. It was beautifully organised and full of excellent vinyl, CDs and of course – cassettes. We probably would have bought some stuff – but the owner was distinctly unfriendly (very unusual in our experience). From the moment we walked in the door (and we were the only people in the store) his frown just got deeper and deeper. In the end we took the hint and left – sayonara crabby!
From there it was back to Ebisu and our accommodation for a little break before heading out for drinks and dinner – in that order. Drinks first – at Buri a “standing bar” a short walk from our accommodation which is famous for its frozen sake – yes please. The staff were super friendly and helpful and made some suggestions about sake to try – we just went with whatever they reckoned. They came back with three jars of sake that were super cold – almost to the point of freezing. Then with great ceremony, they smacked the tops of the sake jars with their and magically the liquid sake crystallised – turning into instant slushies. Kinda gimmicky but great fun – and just what we needed in the Tokyo humidity.
Feeling a little more relaxed, we strolled for 10 or so minutes to Yasube which is a very popular gyoza dumpling place that was recommended to us by our air bnb host. We joined the queue and tried to stay dry (it had started to rain again). After staring hungrily at the diners inside for 30 minutes or so we were shown to our spot (a little bench next to the kitchen). What a cracker of a place for our last Tokyo dinner! The gyoza were served fried or steamed (with a bowl of accompanying broth – the staff showed us how to eat the two together using your soup spoon) and they were “next level.” We ordered plate after plate of the delicious little buggers. I also dried the deep fried whitebait on a stick and a delicious salad of thinly sliced capsicum with sesame and nori. Oh and we also drank beer. So very very good. It was only s short stroll home to sleep and dream of gyoza heaven.
flyeelookee 