Another morning run that I really shouldn’t have attempted. Gora and Hakone are so fricken hilly – every street is like Forest Rd and Mellifont St combined. But I still wake so early and I figure I may as well have a look around while everyone else is sleeping. In the end it was worth it though as I stumbled across a small shrine – deserted in the early morning. The sun came out briefly to reveal a spectacular view across the valley, and some giant “geta” (those Japanese wooden clog things). It seems the Shrine was somehow devoted to them so there were a series of giant shoes made of metal (not wood) lined up outside – weird.
Once everyone else had struggled out of their futons, we strolled down once more to Paseo Cafe for another excellent pastry and some passable coffee. It turns out that the real selling point of the cafe though is that they operate some kind of Cavalier Spaniel rescuer service. There were two puppies curled up in blankets by the entrance to the cafe when we were there – so cute – and they sold T-Shirts.
Then it was up another massive hill to catch a bus across the top of the mountain and down the other side to Lake Ashi. Our original plan was to catch the cable car over the top of the mountain and over the top of the active volcanic crater of Mt Owakudani and then down to Lake Ashi. This is a big deal and supposedly very spectacular – so it’s very popular with tourists (including the Japanese). Unfortunately the cable car was not operating due to a bunch of recent volcanic activity. They wouldn’t even let you walk in the area as there were poisonous gases being emitted. We saw evidence of this as we rode the bus, in the distance we saw huge wastelands of smouldering vegetation with steam or smoke or something drifting up. And the aroma of sulphur was everywhere – so romantic!
The ferry was leaving just after we arrived so we jumped straight on and sailed the 6 or so kms to the other end of the lake. Lake Ashi is volcanic so the shoreline juts down sharply into the water – and it is so densely forested – really spectacular and one of the most beautiful lakes I have ever seen. Dotted here and there, clinging to the shoreline are a series of Shrines that you can only really see because of their bright orange Shrine gates. The whole vista was so serene – until it was spoilt by a giant tacky fricken pseudo mock pirate ship that came around the bend. It turns out there are actually three of these fake pirate ships that sail around the lake – each is painted a garish bright colour and each has fibreglass figures of pirates fixed to their decks – so cheesy – and so popular with the tourists. Our lovely flash ferry was almost empty, but the pirate ships were checkers – so many philistines sailing the seven seas aaarrrr!
Anyway we eventually docked (is that the right seafaring word?) at the other end of the lake at Hakone-Machi – a tiny town with a few tourist restaurants and souvenir shops. From there we decided to walk around the lake to the next town of Moto-Hakone. It was a lovely walk – and on a clear day (i.e. almost never at this time of the year) you can supposedly see Mt Fuji rising up above the lake. Fortunately we all have very vivid imaginations – Jules and Lou swore they could see an outline through the haze and fog – but my eyes are old and failing so I had to take their word for it.
On the way around the foreshore we stopped at the house and gardens of Onshi Hakone Koen. The house was apparently once used by the Japanese Imperial Family, the upstairs verandah is a prime Fuji viewing spot – but as I say – not today. The gardens were beautiful though – and they even contain what is allegedly one of the 100 most beautiful bridges in the prefecture – okey dokey.
We had a soba noodle lunch with a truckload of very loud Chinese tourists before jumping on a ferry (10 people got on our massive ferry and hundreds got on the day-glo pirate ship – morons) back to the bus terminal at Tōgendai.
There was just time for a little rest before schlepping it down the hill to the local convenience store for beer and noodles etc. Luckily the funicular made what the uphill slog much more bearable.
And then – the best part of the day – another onsen session in our own private onsen. What a luxury. We are getting much better at it now – we even know how to best balance the washcloth on your head to keep your head cool while your body broils. If it’s good enough for the Japanese…
flyeelookee 