Our last morning in Kyoto – so we woke early and Jules and I decided to go for a run before brekky – a decision that we soon ended up regretting. While the Gion area of Kyoto is full of cute tiny streets with shrines and ryokan everywhere – it is also quite hilly. So many stairs! The reward though was an another end of run coffee at “% Arabica” – it’s a weird name but it’s great coffee.
Later we packed up and trundled down to the bus stop to piss the local commuters off once more with our massive bags on a crowded bus into the heart of Kyoto (su mi ma sen!). Lou picked up his developed prints from his old skool film, we made a quick stop at another cool record store for one more little slice of vinyl heaven and then it was on the Shinkansen for Odawara. We were so deeply buried in our respective digital worlds that we very nearly missed the stop for Odawara. We were stuffing phones and laptops into bags and scurrying off the train with only seconds to spare. Lou forgot his “bum bag” (he’s so fashionable) but we were saved by the locals in the seats behind us who dashed to the door waving the bag – phew!
Today’s objective was to get to the Hakone area – more specifically to Gora – which is a tiny place up in the mountains not far from Tokyo. It used as a by the locals as a getaway from the summer heat of Tokyo – it’s also popular in the winter – kind of like a Japanese version of Sydney’s Blue Mountains but without the Hydro-Majestic. The main attraction for us in Gora were the numerous onsen (Japanese bath houses) that are scattered everywhere around Hakone. These bath houses are fed by natural hot springs that bubble up everywhere, largely due to the nearby active volcano of Mount Hakone. A bit like Rotorua – including the sulphurous smell that drifts everywhere. Japanese bath houses are generally gender segregated and you bathe starkers. The only problem is that most of them have a strict rule prohibiting people with tattoos from bathing – something to do with the Yakuza or whatever. We had been researching onsen that permit tattoos – but as it turns out we needn’t have worried because our Air BnB came complete with it’s own onsen – for reals!
We took another dreaded bus from Odawara up to our accommodation – unlocked the gate, strolled through the traditional garden, unlocked the door and entered a whole other world. Lou was first through the door and I heard him exclaim “This is lovely!” And it was – it’s a huge place that could accommodate about 8 people, futons on the floor, rice paper sliding doors, tatami, a mural of Mt Fuji on the wall of the living area (yes really) – and of course the kicker – the aforementioned private onsen – which is fed directly from the thermal spring. It’s big enough to hold at least 4 broiling bathers, and the whole huge room is filled with steam, a separate shower and a door that opens onto the garden. All plans of visiting public onsen evaporated with the steam.
But we needed food so we trekked down the incredibly steep streets to find a convenience store. We stocked up and were delighted to stumble across Gora Brewery and Grill on the way back. Craft beer, grilled shishito peppers, spicy edamame and local fish cakes – so very very good. We even discovered the local funicular on the way home – which made the uphill trek way more bearable.
Arriving back at our accommodation once more it was straight into the onsen, where we quickly became wrinkled pink blobs – but relaxed wrinkled pink blobs. So lovely. So lucky.
flyeelookee 