Day 3 – My style: black cap and LV bag

Well day 3 dawned in Tokyo. It was hot – some might say too hot – especially if they were from Hobart. We woke slightly groggy from the cultural overload of the previous day and night. But there was no denying it, by now we were fully addicted to “experiences.” We had two planned for the day ahead – but first coffee and pastry at our “usual.” Check.

Staying in Shinjuku has its benefits but as the home to Tokyo’s largest train station, getting in and out is intimidating and challenging. The station footprint feels like it’s about the same size as Hobart. But it’s a challenge we accepted as we successfully navigated our way across to the gloriously brutalist National Museum of Modern Art Tokyo. They had a “trio” exhibition on featuring contemporary art from Paris, Tokyo and Osaka. The building was great, the exhibition was OK but what would I know? I’m just a dilettante.

On the way to the museum. Why waste space with a river when you can build a train line above it?

Like I said – gloriously brutalist.

Taking a sneaky peek. From the “Trio” exhibition at the National Museum of Modern Art.

More art and that

After a trio of gelato on the Museum lawns it was over to Harajuku for lunch. Hand rolled sushi at Gon Pachi – gorgeous. Then it was time for our next “experience” courtesy of AirBnB. This time it was the “Tokyo Street Style Shopping with Local Experts in Shibuya” experience. We met our guide Hiroyuki “Hiro” (seems it’s a common name in Japan) under a busy building in Shibuya. I liked him straight away. His message to identify himself: “I’m waiting to meet you. My style black cap, LV bag” – in case you’re a fashion idiot like me LV stands for Louis Vuitton. Clutching his LV bag, Hiro led us through a series of small shops stocked with clothes by local designers – it was cool and intimidating at the same time. The best place he took us to was Rag Tag, 4 floors of “select” vintage clothes. Hiro was patient, we bought a few things – nothing too extra mind you – all tasteful, before saying ciao to Hiro.

Happy shoppers outside the Nike concept store Shibuya.

Hiro and two fashionistas. LV bag not pictured.

To round out the night we recklessly decided to head to a bar in Shinjuku that we had heard about called Open Book. Famous for its lemon sours made with shochu. We had no idea were stumbling into the Golden Gai district – four tiny alleys jam packed with bars, some no bigger than a shipping container – which was about the size of Open Book. It was packed. Lemon sours were consumed, babbling with the locals occurred etc etc. we stumbled upon the bar and stumbled home – it was a set.

Open Book in Golden Gai. No books were opened.

We were drinking. They were working.

Day 2 – Crushed by falling J-rock and pop

We woke a little bleary eyed but super excited for our first full day in Tokyo. We’re just a couple of wide eyed freedom seekers and we had big plans… but first… coffee.

We found a pretty cool cafe nearby – the Blue Bottle Cafe. Macchiatos were consumed, pain au chocolates were inhaled and spirits were suitably lifted. I didn’t say anything about us not being wankers – there’ll be a lot of it in this blog.

Anyway we didn’t have much time to spare. We had booked one of those AirBnB “experiences” mainly because we were super keen to see some Japanese music but were finding it tricky to access. That’s where Hirotaki “Hiro” and his J-Rock experience comes in. We’d been messaging back and forth in the lead up to today and Hiro had arranged for the three of us to go to the Yatsui Festival – a massive music festival spread over 6 or so venues in the heart of Tokyo around the super hip Shibuya area. We started at midday and finally left around 7 pm. It was mind blowing. The artists were all Japanese and Hiro was an incredible guide, a passionate and knowledgeable music fan who dragged us up to the front of each venue. He even took us to a cool nearby sushi bar for lunch. It was too much but I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

Hiro and two very excited music fans

Number one!

Wednesday Campanella – no natural fibres were worn

Motoko “Motifour” Kida from Tricot. She was simply one of the best guitarists I have ever seen.

Otoboke Beaver from Kyoto. Punk with capital P.

Yoyoyoshie from Otoboke Beaver soloing while crowd surfing. Told you they were punk.

After that all that music we were hungry once more and ducked over to Meguro to a place called Tonki Tonkatsu for some amazing Pork Tonkatsu. They’ve been doing it for decades so they kinda know what they’re doing. After that home and a big decompress from our first day in Japan.

Tonki Tonkatsu. Nice hats and even nicer tonkatsu.

Day 1 – Hobart to Tokyo, or is 3 hours sleep OK?

The long slow descent into discomfort. Rugged up to deal with the freezing Hobart and Melbourne weather- but ready to fly

Sooooo, four years later and we’re on our way back to Japan at last. This time around I’ll try and keep the words to a minimum and let the pictures do the talking. We’ll see how we go…

Leaving Hobart to fly overseas always feels more epic than it should, in a bad way. We were too excited to sleep much and were up and into a taxi at 4:45 am. Slowbart to Melbourne and then up and out of Australia at 9:30 am for the 9 hour flight to Narita Tokyo. I must have been over tired because I started to cry during the safety briefing video. All that cheesy fake multicultural Australiana that Qantas does so well. The flight was only about 60% full and it was a daytime flight, but still we were lucky enough to sit behind two people who immediately put their seats back as far as they could go, swilling champagne all the way. I’ll be honest, I wanted to stab them both with my plastic fork.

We landed in Narita about 7 pm local time and took the Narita express into Shinjuku to our accommodation at the JR Kyushu Blossom Hotel. A tiny room (19 metres squared apparently) but perfectly clean, neat and nice. There was just time for a quick dash to Lawsons (a kind of Japanese 7-11) for some ice cold Japanese beers and then the slide into an exhausted sleep.

At last – the JR Kyushu Blossom Hotel in Shinjuku! Slightly different attire is required for Tokyo.

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