Author: alsolouis

As usual it was a Seven Eleven scratch brekky of tiny yoghurt, cardboard orange juice and an overripe banana. Then it was down to Odaiba again (or near there at least – I think) for the Tsukiji Outer Market – which used to be the location for the Tokyo Fish Market but it has now moved – however the outer market of fish and fresh produce and assorted weird food stuff remains. Soooo… that’s where we went. We sampled a mega hipster long black (yes!!!) from a dude in a flat cap with ornate facial hair, then it was takoyaki (octopus balls), grilled tuna, and Japanese omelette on a stick. It started raining heavily as we were buying chopsticks from a market stall (someone has to buy them). The lovely old lady at the stall gave Jules an umbrella for free.

The rain and our hunger lingered on for the whole afternoon so next up was Shake Shack in Rappongi and then across to Harajuku once for more shopping. There was the sprinting sales assistant in Gettry where Lou bought shoes and the indifferent wankers selling shrink wrapped trainers at jaw dropping prices at Worm Shoes – not worth the walk in the pouring rain – in fact avoid at all costs. Sadly the great JC shoe hunt must continue.

Our attempt to sample the art at the Mori Museum of Contemporary Art was a total failure – it was closed for reasons which were not at all clear.  So there was nothing for it but to eat Ramen at the totally amazing Afuri. Order on the machine, print out your tickets, take it to the counter and slurp. So good – clean, light fragrant broth, lovely staff – must go again.

Subwayed it across Tokyo to shopping mecca Harajuku. Luckily the massive Meiji-Jingu shrine and park is right opposite the subway entrance so we took a stroll around it before descending into shopping hell. Meiji-Jingu is massive and the park surrounding it is also huge – a little like Central Park in that it is also surrounded by huge buildings in a long rectangular space. Props to Lou once more for his expertise in the area of shrine etiquette – our hands were clean and our bows were deep.

And so to shopping – first a very small and very crappy coffee and then some huge shopping. The Lush Concept Store featuring a bath bomb sushi train, the Onitsuka Tiger Concept store which had a pair of tigers on sale for $940. I bought some – but mine were a little cheaper. The Adidas Store, the ridiculously expensive and slightly ludicrous high fashion of the Commes De Garcon store, tried to get into the Supreme Clothing store but the queue was literally around the block. Just as well if the prices of stuff in the window were any guide.

Running out of time, so it was straight across to the massive covered Tokyo Dome to catch the baseball – Tokyo Giants vs the Fukuoka Hawks. Words fail me – the crowd was massive, the chants were elaborate, the beer was readily available and then there was the baseball itself. A lacklustre game which the Hawks easily won. Not that I noticed, we were seated next to two of the most conservative Americans from Atlanta who simply would not shut up. As usual I was more polite than the Japanese and subsequently missed half the game while they burbled on about the Japanese toilets, how they hated raw fish and what a problem “reverse racism” was in Atlanta. I almost lost my lunch – and my phone.

Another trip to Tokyo Midtown for coffee – excellent and expensive as always. Then it was off to the much anticipated Studio Ghibli Museum. If the hassle of getting museum tickets about 6 months ago online in any way compared to the actual experience of the museum itself – then we were in for a massive day. And so it was. We jumped on the bright yellow Studio Ghibli bus at Mitaka station and joined the queue to get in. The museum was lovely – cute, dare I say it – whimsical and packed to the rafters with geeks from around the world. The Cat Bus room was excellent, as was the room which recreated Miyazaki office space etc. But by far my favourite was the Kiosk which sold exclusive Studio Ghibli Pale Ale. We ended our visit with a viewing of an exclusive Ghibli short film about an egg person and a bone dough creature who become friends and escape from an evil flying grandma.

Later we trekked over to Tokyo hipster ground zero – the suburb of Shimo-Akitazawa. Laneways, shops, vintage clothing stores, bars, barbers, record stores. All very chaotic and very cool. Dinner was amazing – cheap Red Snapper Ramen at Norisoba Salt – light, clean and delicious – and beer. Even later we made it to a top floor bar that played only 80s Japanese disco music – on vinyl of course. Just time then for a Uniqlo run and home to collapse.

Dodgy brekky sourced from Seven Eleven in our sumptuous apartment followed by a stroll through fancy pants suburb Asakasa to the upmarket Tokyo Midtown Mall. Stopped at a local shrine on the way – our very first. Luckily Lou knew the drill – wash hands, bow, clap twice bow etc. Actually managed to find decent coffee at Midtown then it was on the subway to Odaiba for the Team Lab extravaganza.

Team Lab is an interactive digital art exhibition. Amazing, beautiful but at the same time very commercial, a touch gaudy and somehow a bit like eating fast food. Followed it up with lunch at the suspiciously named Palette Town Mall.

Staggered through the blinding heat to the Odaiba pier to catch the ferry to Asakusa and Tokyo’s most popular shrine Senso-Ji. But not before docking opposite the Asahi Beer headquarters (designed by Philippe Starck and supposed to look like a giant beer with a flame? – looks a bit more like a jobby)

Asakusa was “a lot” – very beautiful, very crowded and very hot. More hand washing, bowing and clapping. We even saw a woman walking down the street with a real live Owl perched on her shoulder. And I don’t mean a little birdy, I mean a fully fledged Harry Potter certified giant fricken owl. It turned and watched us as it went past.

Later dinner at Honmura An in Rappongi – soba noodles on bamboo mats with dipping sauces – and beer – in this heat, always beer. Later a stroll through Rappongi (clubs, neon, pachinko – deafeningly loud Japanese versions of poker machines etc).

The Buddhists say that every journey begins with the first step – but they obviously never flew Qantas from Hobart to Tokyo. We were trapped in tiny seats with no leg room with the kid behind us kicking the seat. No steps were taken.

Arrived Tokyo Narita airport about 6:30 pm after a 6:00 am departure from Hobart. Picked up the pocket wifi (a godsend as it turns out – onya Jules) and charged up the Suica Cards (thanks Avril) which it turns out can be used on the subway and to buy beer. Seventeen subway line changes later we made it to our A1 accommodation in the fancy suburb of Asakasa. Made a mercy dash to the 7-11 (love Japanese Seven Elevens – they sell Ramen and not Slurpees) for beer and other high salt stuff. Sleeeeeepppp…..